Window Tinting

When we bought new furniture for the Living Room, we were concerned about the sunlight fading the furniture. We installed shades on some windows in the back of the house to use when the sunset is a little intense, but we aren’t always home to draw the shades to protect from the sun.

Our answer = window tinting! I did research on tinting that is okay to be installed on double-pane glass. Tinting reflects the sunlight and it gets trapped between the double-pane glass and can cause it to crack or break the gas seal and allows moisture to get trapped and you have fog between the glass panels.

Our glass doors in the back became foggy within 3 months of moving in. It use to only happen in the Winter, but then it stayed. And when I contacted the manufacturer, they conveniently wouldn’t return my calls or emails. I received a quote to fix the glass, but I might as well buy new doors. It is on my to-do list in 5 years.

In the meantime, I used window tinting found at Home Depot to put on the doors. It’s awesome! It gives reflection from the outside, so it is harder to see in during the day, and it looks like we have sunglasses on in the house. The house is not as bright, but I have now gotten used to it.

Window on right is not tinted.

We installed the tint on the breakfast nook windows as well, because the sunsets in the Winter come through those windows as well and hit the living room. During the Summer, the sun shifts and it won’t be that much of an impact.

only bottom half is tinted

Windows on right tinted

In the picture comparison above, you can see how the inside of the house disappears with the tint. The bottom picture has the windows on the right completed and you can't see the window sill trim. But you can still see the trim on the left window. As long as the light on the outside is brighter than the inside, you cannot see inside.

Tips I learned while installing that I want to share:

1. Buy the install kit
   It comes with a razor, soap solution bottle, scraper and lint-free towel. They are all useful.
2. Don’t buy the liquid refill
   When the soap solution runs out, put a cap-ful of Johnson’s baby shampoo in bottle and fill with water.
3. Clean window
   Make sure window is extremely clean and if there is painted trim (like there was on our doors) that it is not on the window. Use razor to get excess paint off.
4. Measure window and add a half inch to the measurements on all sides for tint size
   I used graph paper to get efficient use of the film and have less waste. It is all about planning! Sometimes I only added 0.25 inch extra to the window measurements.
5. Mark tint with sharpie and cut
   Make sure your lines are not slanted. One side slanted will not be able to be installed on a straight line window edge. I used a sharpie to mark my lines. You have to work to get it off, but it should be on the excess that you will cut off.
6. Wet tint in sink
   To save on soapy solution, I filled up my sink or tub with water to dip the tint in before separating it from its protective film.
7. Spray window with soap solution
   Overload the window and film with soapy solution. This allows you to move it around freely while lining it up.
8. Use tape on corners to separate film from protective sheet
   A small piece of tape, facing each other become handles to separate the film from its cover.
9. Spray film as you separate it from cover
   To help with static and creasing as you peel away the two films, pull it down some and spray the sticky side with soapy solution. If the window is large, have someone hold the film while you spray it. This makes it less sticky while you install.
10. Work the air bubbles
    Spray the film outside with soapy solution and use the provided squeegee card to work out major bubbles. I kept a regular hand towel ready to get the soapy solution excess. I went back and forth getting the solution out and the air bubbles. I wanted to make crease of the edges so my razor knew where to go.
11. Cut corners with scissors, not razor
    The razor is great and takes time to figure out, but I noticed I had errors if I used it all the way to the corner. It would cut in. So I would start an inch from the top and take the razor down the edge until one inch above the corner and stop. Then I lifted up the corner and cut with a scissor along the crease formed.
12. Look for debris
    There might be debris that gets between the glass and film. If that happens, left up the film, spray it with soapy solution and use your wet finger to wipe it off. Spray the film again and repeat the process of getting the bubbles out.
13. Keep checking it as it dries
    You will think you have it perfect and leave. But go back and check ten minutes later. An edge might pop back up. When I noticed this happen was when my film was not cut exactly right and had overlap on the edge beyond the glass. The slightest sliver over makes a large air bubble.
14. Use ammonia-free cleaner for maintenance.
    Ammonia will break down the film and shorten its life. I suggest using the soapy formula used during install as your new window cleaner. Cap-full of baby shampoo with water.

Once you get the hang of it, it becomes very easy. Plan to buy extra because your first attempt will be a practice run (Even if you don’t think it will.)

We used this tint in the dormer windows upstairs, too. Not only does it block the UV rays, but it is suppose to help with heat transfer. Our ICF walls are awesome, but with so many windows, that is where you lose heat the most. I wouldn’t trade my windows, but even with Low-e glass, the tint should help. I’ll let you know how the Summer goes.