Window Tinting

When we bought new furniture for the Living Room, we were concerned about the sunlight fading the furniture. We installed shades on some windows in the back of the house to use when the sunset is a little intense, but we aren’t always home to draw the shades to protect from the sun.

Our answer = window tinting! I did research on tinting that is okay to be installed on double-pane glass. Tinting reflects the sunlight and it gets trapped between the double-pane glass and can cause it to crack or break the gas seal and allows moisture to get trapped and you have fog between the glass panels.

Our glass doors in the back became foggy within 3 months of moving in. It use to only happen in the Winter, but then it stayed. And when I contacted the manufacturer, they conveniently wouldn’t return my calls or emails. I received a quote to fix the glass, but I might as well buy new doors. It is on my to-do list in 5 years.

In the meantime, I used window tinting found at Home Depot to put on the doors. It’s awesome! It gives reflection from the outside, so it is harder to see in during the day, and it looks like we have sunglasses on in the house. The house is not as bright, but I have now gotten used to it.

Window on right is not tinted.

We installed the tint on the breakfast nook windows as well, because the sunsets in the Winter come through those windows as well and hit the living room. During the Summer, the sun shifts and it won’t be that much of an impact.

only bottom half is tinted

Windows on right tinted

In the picture comparison above, you can see how the inside of the house disappears with the tint. The bottom picture has the windows on the right completed and you can't see the window sill trim. But you can still see the trim on the left window. As long as the light on the outside is brighter than the inside, you cannot see inside.

Tips I learned while installing that I want to share:

1. Buy the install kit
   It comes with a razor, soap solution bottle, scraper and lint-free towel. They are all useful.
2. Don’t buy the liquid refill
   When the soap solution runs out, put a cap-ful of Johnson’s baby shampoo in bottle and fill with water.
3. Clean window
   Make sure window is extremely clean and if there is painted trim (like there was on our doors) that it is not on the window. Use razor to get excess paint off.
4. Measure window and add a half inch to the measurements on all sides for tint size
   I used graph paper to get efficient use of the film and have less waste. It is all about planning! Sometimes I only added 0.25 inch extra to the window measurements.
5. Mark tint with sharpie and cut
   Make sure your lines are not slanted. One side slanted will not be able to be installed on a straight line window edge. I used a sharpie to mark my lines. You have to work to get it off, but it should be on the excess that you will cut off.
6. Wet tint in sink
   To save on soapy solution, I filled up my sink or tub with water to dip the tint in before separating it from its protective film.
7. Spray window with soap solution
   Overload the window and film with soapy solution. This allows you to move it around freely while lining it up.
8. Use tape on corners to separate film from protective sheet
   A small piece of tape, facing each other become handles to separate the film from its cover.
9. Spray film as you separate it from cover
   To help with static and creasing as you peel away the two films, pull it down some and spray the sticky side with soapy solution. If the window is large, have someone hold the film while you spray it. This makes it less sticky while you install.
10. Work the air bubbles
    Spray the film outside with soapy solution and use the provided squeegee card to work out major bubbles. I kept a regular hand towel ready to get the soapy solution excess. I went back and forth getting the solution out and the air bubbles. I wanted to make crease of the edges so my razor knew where to go.
11. Cut corners with scissors, not razor
    The razor is great and takes time to figure out, but I noticed I had errors if I used it all the way to the corner. It would cut in. So I would start an inch from the top and take the razor down the edge until one inch above the corner and stop. Then I lifted up the corner and cut with a scissor along the crease formed.
12. Look for debris
    There might be debris that gets between the glass and film. If that happens, left up the film, spray it with soapy solution and use your wet finger to wipe it off. Spray the film again and repeat the process of getting the bubbles out.
13. Keep checking it as it dries
    You will think you have it perfect and leave. But go back and check ten minutes later. An edge might pop back up. When I noticed this happen was when my film was not cut exactly right and had overlap on the edge beyond the glass. The slightest sliver over makes a large air bubble.
14. Use ammonia-free cleaner for maintenance.
    Ammonia will break down the film and shorten its life. I suggest using the soapy formula used during install as your new window cleaner. Cap-full of baby shampoo with water.

Once you get the hang of it, it becomes very easy. Plan to buy extra because your first attempt will be a practice run (Even if you don’t think it will.)

We used this tint in the dormer windows upstairs, too. Not only does it block the UV rays, but it is suppose to help with heat transfer. Our ICF walls are awesome, but with so many windows, that is where you lose heat the most. I wouldn’t trade my windows, but even with Low-e glass, the tint should help. I’ll let you know how the Summer goes.

Kitchen Windows

When we moved in, we immediately put up window coverings downstairs. The boys' bedrooms eventually got curtains, but they weren't using them for a while anyways. But the back of the house we left the windows uncovered. We didn't want to obstruct our view.

Plus, the sunsets are gorgeous. Even though the sun is in your eyes for 45 minutes, the view you get once the sun is behind the trees is beautiful. I didn't want anything to block it. But I lost that battle, and we have put shades up.

The windows were looking unfinished, but the main reason for window treatments was the sunset. The beautiful, but blinding sunset.

I had the salesman come over that did our plantation shutters to quote me for another project (details coming soon) and I told him to bring samples of his woven shades. I narrowed it down to three

They were all beautiful, but way past my budget. Even the cheapest one was not feasible. I went back to the drawing board. I liked the shades at the old house and I got those from Home Depot.

But Home Depot no longer carries them. I then ordered a shade from Home Depot called 'Driftwood' but it was a nightmare. It looked like fake, uneven painted wood. I returned that promptly. I then decided to look at Lowes in-stock inventory. I found a Levelor shade I really liked. It is called Tatami.

I wanted something that matched the wood floors, and it did. It had variations just like the floor. You can get the shades cut to the perfect width in the store, but not all widths come in all lengths. For some reason I could not get a shade narrower than 36 inches at a 60 inch length, it was only available in the 72 inch length. It would have to be a custom order. At $215 per window, I couldn't do it. I got the 72 inch length in a narrow size for the French doors, and came to a road block of what to do for the windows.

I used the 72-inch length on the doors. That is where the sunset was prettiest and the worst. You couldn't sit on the couch without the sun in your eyes.

Somehow I got on a Google hunt about making shades at a custom length. I then realized I could make the 72-inch length into 60-inch. So, I went back to Lowes and got the in-stock 72 inch length.

I measured where the shade hit the window sil and marked the fold with a piece of scotch tape.

I then cut a inch past the fold.

I removed the string and attached it the the next ring higher.

I then used hot glue to fix the fold permanently.

It was so easy and so worth not having to pay the custom price.

With our deep window sils, I put the shades halfway into the frame. I wanted to still have a window sil with the shades drawn.

For the really large window I was willing to have a custom shade so that I could have one shade and not three. That way I could not have to be bothered with trying to make the shades be pulled at the same height for all three. But, at 106" wide, the shade would have to be two shades on one headrail. This option wouldn't work and would look funny having two shades across three windows, and I couldn't get three shades on one headrail. So, I decided to go with three separate shades.

It looks great and is not that hard to get all three at the same height. Mr. JCrew was very worried the view would be obstructed, and I admit I got nervous when I saw the shades took up almost 1/4th of the window with them up. But I have already gotten use to it and can see things just fine. And pulling the shades at night has provided extra privacy. There is a street in the distance that while on, if you are TRYING to view our house, you can see it. I was on the street at night once and saw into some windows and thought it was pretty and then realized that was my house! Then I started thinking of what people could be seeing (no running to the fridge in my underwear! Not that I did.) Even though our backyard view is far away from neighbors, you can still see. So, I am glad we now have coverings to use at night.

Eventually, I would like to install some curtain panels the same color as the wall to add texture. I wouldn't need to close them, but they'd be there for structure. I'm on the hunt for the right fabric. I'm keeping a paint swatch in my purse for now. Stay tuned!